Sunday, February 22, 2009

This woman is wearing a draped sari, the traditional Indian attire for women. A sari is created by folding and wrapping 9 yards of fabric around the body.


















(Left)
Roman draped fabric worn on both men and women.

(Right)
Elizabeth Taylor portraying the ancient Egyptian style of draping. However, this portrayal shows sewing techniques to imitate drapery.
Early 1900s men in tailored clothing, shown in long waist coats, mens stockings and general hats.

Left:

Mens tailoring. 1930s Long waistcoat design for gents. Designer: Callot


Right:

Mens tailoring. 1960s Wide leg garments for men.
Designer: Pierre Cardin

Friday, February 13, 2009

6 Functions of Dress: Why we wear what we wear




1) Group Membership


This is a Japanse boy band, the Teriyaki Boyz. They are diplaying their own fraternity style: Matching hooded sweatshirts and bleached, washed out denim. This style portrays their relationship to the urban, hip-hop community of the music industry they are a part of.


2005, Teriyaki Boyz




2) Environmental Clothing


My second example of dress was created with the use of elements of nature. The is a dress made of bark. Although the shape and form of the design has been inherited from the Ch'ing Dynasty, this is a Japanese dress constructed in the early 20th century. This form of dress is still worn in northern parts of Hokkaido, Japan by Ainu tribes.

The bark material is called attush fabric and it remains popluar in this region. Two main surface designs are presented here, applique and embroidery. The bark fibers were taken from elm trees.


Designer: Early 20th century, made by an Ainu native, owner is Robert Hemphill


3) Ceremonial Dress


This ceremonial dress is an example of a South East Asian bridal dress, or a lengha. The color red is quite condusive to the ceremony, as it is considered the traditional color for the bride.


The use of gold and silver threading by the designer further instigates the importance of this dress and the importance of the person wearing it. The use of this type of embroidery is borrowed from the Mughal Empire.

Designed by Manish Malhotra, 2007









4) Decorative Dress

This is an example of decorative dress that simply is used for branding purposes. The dress is being worn as type of statement to suggest a relationship between the wearer to the manufacter Burberry.

20th Century Design, Burberry (plaid design)





5) Sexual Enhancement: Body and Image




This is an image of Queen Mary I. She was aware of the fact that she could manipulate her image in society by her choice of dress. Therefore her style was large and more decorated; over time her fashion even incorporated extremely wide hemlines.



The widespread use of flamboyant ruffles made it difficult to eat, resulting in women splitting the ruffle in front so that it was easier to manage food, this technique also provided a frame for the wearer's cleavage. This dress form demonstrates the enhancement of the Queen's image as well as her body.



16th Century Europe, Queen Mary I










6) Gender Differentiation




This painting reflects the Middle Ages. It is easy to distinuish male and female figures, as well as their roles in society because of the symbolism of the dress choice.




Men are displaying form fitting pantyhose while the female characters are shown wearing flowing, long dresses. The knights are further distinguished by armory, while the nobility are adorned with accessories, such as crowns and rods which signify their respective power.




The male figure is adorned in a jaquette, or short camisole. This style replaced long tunics and was sometimes worn by those who were representatives of court during that era. The exposed legs of the the men were covered with leggings that had soles attached to each foot, so that shoes were not needed.




Painting, circa 1340, Northern France