The Zoot Suit, United States, circa 1940s
The Zoot Suit, United States, circa 1940s (above right); Emanuel Ungaro, Zoot suit, U.S, Fall/Winter Collection 2008 (above left); John Galliano, U.S, 2009 (right)
The Zoot Suit
The popularization of the Zoot Suit was the result of a has been referred to as a rebellion of minority groups during the late 1930s and 1940s. Because of decisions made by the War Production Board during World War II, the material required to create suits was cut back by 26%, so greater efforts and expenses could be geared towards war efforts. The decision to wear ‘extravagant’ Zoot suiting seemed to be a declaration of rebellion toward service men, which eventually led to the horrible ‘Zoot Suit Riots’ between minorities and the servicemen of the military.
The Zoot Suit
The popularization of the Zoot Suit was the result of a has been referred to as a rebellion of minority groups during the late 1930s and 1940s. Because of decisions made by the War Production Board during World War II, the material required to create suits was cut back by 26%, so greater efforts and expenses could be geared towards war efforts. The decision to wear ‘extravagant’ Zoot suiting seemed to be a declaration of rebellion toward service men, which eventually led to the horrible ‘Zoot Suit Riots’ between minorities and the servicemen of the military.
The Zoot Suit is a high-waisted, wide-legged and tight cuffed trouser paired with a long coat with wide lapels. Accessories included felt hats with long feathers and pointy, French style shoes, as well as chains that swung from the side of the waist. Both men and women participated in donning Zoot Suits. According to a statement made by Octavio Paz, the Zoot Suit was "a symbol of love and joy or of horror and loathing, an embodiment of liberty, of disorder, of the forbidden."
http://invention.smithsonian.org/centerpieces/whole_cloth/u7sf/u7materials/cosgrove.html#10#10
On the runway, Zoot Suit inspiration can be seen in Emanuel Ungaro’s creations, where he created wide silhouettes reminiscent of the baggy 1930s style. He has paired the look with a modern, fitted blazer. On the other hand, the proportions are kept big in John Galliano’s 2009 ensemble, using patchwork to add detail to his other-wise women’s Zoot Suit.
Teddy Bodys, London, 1962
A 'Ted's' Boy, United States, 1962
Savile Row, US, 2009 
Teddy Boy Label, United States, 2009The Teddy Boy
The Teddy Boy subculture originated in Britain, spreading across the United Kingdom and becoming associated with American rock and roll music of the 1950s. As teenagers, Teddy Boys were the first English youth group to differentiate themselves as a separate segment, therefore helping to create a consumer market for the youth.
The Teddy Boy look was inspired by styles of the Edwardian period, which includes the re-introduction of tailored garments after World War II.
The Teddy Boys enabled the youth to care for their appearance exclusively for show (ascompared to function), instead of reserving one’s best clothes for school or special occasions. The trend was elevated when the disposable income of younger people increased.
The Teddy Boy look included darkly colored long drape jackets, velvet trim collars and pocket flaps, high-waisted ‘drainpipe’ trousers, and was accessorized with brightly colored socks. Footwear included chunky wingtips, often made of suede. The shirt of choice would be a high-necked collared shirt with narrow tie and brocade waistcoat.
As seen in the Teddy Boy Label, the modern Teddy Boy look mixes Edwardian influences with flair, such as a heavy dosage of velvet. The look has been mixed with drape jackets, waistcoats, skinny ties, lace up boots and tapered jeans. As seen in the work of Savile Row’s label, skinny ties are still popular with the Teddy look, but a splash of color and sheen add a modern twist.
The Teddy Boys enabled the youth to care for their appearance exclusively for show (ascompared to function), instead of reserving one’s best clothes for school or special occasions. The trend was elevated when the disposable income of younger people increased.
The Teddy Boy look included darkly colored long drape jackets, velvet trim collars and pocket flaps, high-waisted ‘drainpipe’ trousers, and was accessorized with brightly colored socks. Footwear included chunky wingtips, often made of suede. The shirt of choice would be a high-necked collared shirt with narrow tie and brocade waistcoat.
As seen in the Teddy Boy Label, the modern Teddy Boy look mixes Edwardian influences with flair, such as a heavy dosage of velvet. The look has been mixed with drape jackets, waistcoats, skinny ties, lace up boots and tapered jeans. As seen in the work of Savile Row’s label, skinny ties are still popular with the Teddy look, but a splash of color and sheen add a modern twist.
Betsey Johnson, U.S, Fall 09 (left); Annu Sui, U.S, 1999 (right)
Betsey Johnson, U.S, Fall 09 (across right)
The Beatnik
A popular fashion group in the 1950s and 1960s, the Beatniks were a part of the sociocultural movement that promoted an anti-materialistc lifestyle as a result of WWII. As the beatnik fashion trend developed, it featured long, thick sweaters with large cowl collars and slim fitting pencil skirts or stirrup slacks. The trend could also be seen reflected in hairstyles with women starting to have beehives and French pleat their hair. The color of choice for beatniks was all black. This included wearing black turtle necks.
A popular fashion group in the 1950s and 1960s, the Beatniks were a part of the sociocultural movement that promoted an anti-materialistc lifestyle as a result of WWII. As the beatnik fashion trend developed, it featured long, thick sweaters with large cowl collars and slim fitting pencil skirts or stirrup slacks. The trend could also be seen reflected in hairstyles with women starting to have beehives and French pleat their hair. The color of choice for beatniks was all black. This included wearing black turtle necks.
As seen in Audrey Hepburn’s photograph, shorter pants – capris- and rounded flat shoes became vogue. The French fashion trend was even seen amongst college going men, whom started to grow goatees and wear berets.
As seen in Betsey Johnson’s collection, long sweaters are paired with leggings and a beret; a colorful look which channels the Beatnik trend. Her all black ensemble closely matches the anti-shimmer, artistic look of the Beatnik era. Anna Sui’s black ensemble, in which we see a oversized chunky sweater paired over black leggings and rounded flats has strong similarities to Audrey Hepburn’s look in the Beatnik era film, ‘Funny Face’ (below).
Original beatnik inspiration, Audrey Hepburn, as seen in 'Funny Face'1957 (top)Another scene from a beatnik movie, 'The Beat Generation' 1959 (below)
Twiggy, Mod fashion, 1960s (above)
Mod fashion, 1960s
Kirrily Johnston, Mod, 2006 (left)
DVF, Mod, 2007(middle right)
and Nathan Jenden, Mod, 2007(far right)
The Mod
Mod was a trend that started in London in the late 1950s and was most popularized in the early to mid 1960s.
An interesting component to this fashion trend was the pop music associated with it and the popularity of the Italian scooter. As the young teenagers that popularized the trend aged, the trend slowly became less popular. This change in interest is thought to be due to the fact that the people grew out of it. In addition, as they got married and started having children- little time and excess money was left for record shopping and scooter racing. This fashion trend then turned into the Bohemian style of the hippie community in London.
In modern interpretations, the streamlined ‘A’ shape is still present, as is the use of bold geometric prints such as that of DVF and Nathan Jenden. As seen in the Mod-style dress of Twiggy, hemlines of modern examples are also kept short. No frills here!
Hippies, 1960s (above left); John Lennon, London, 1960s (above right)
Ritu Kuman, India, Hippy fashion, 2009 (above)
The Hippy
Samples of Hippie inspired fashion can be seen above. The featured collection was strongly influenced by the classic bohemian aesthetic. The Hippie trend, as seen in the above creations of Ritu Kumar, has popularized multicolor stripes, neon accents, tie-dyed prints, and unexpected fabric pairings. Featured fabrics for Hippie inspired clothing often included heavy wool, soft silk, and slinky jersey, which are now combined in modern fashion to make thick layers and to give a vintage look.
As seen on John Lennon, floral prints and busy motifs were an important part of Hippie fashion. The Hippie era is also known for popularizing large statement pieces such as big leather belts, bold bags and layers of jewelry. As seen in the shoes by Gucci and top by Jasper Conran, as well as original photograph of a group of hippies, fringe has been a reoccurring trend of Hippie fashion.
Dwelsa, Disco inspired shine and silhouette, 1970 (above)
Saturday Night Fever, Disco, 1975
Naeem Khan, Disco, Spring 2009 (above)Frida Giannini for Gucci, Disco, 2009 (below)
The Disco
By the 1970’s, fashion for women had evolved into an awareness of the world, and varied looks became posh. Exotic, tropical prints were starting to be used, reflecting influence from foreign travel. Women opted for full length maxi dresses, evening trousers or fancy halter neck cat suits. Also popular at this time were straight or flared Empire line dresses with a sequined fabric bodice with exotic sleeves. This is a stark contrast to what the Mod fashion scene promoted!
Modern designer Naeem Khan has translated disco into his own line, creating maxi dresses and strapless streamlined looks, adding beading to add light-reflecting glitz. Also compare his ruffled neckline on the right to the original disco photo of the film Saturday Night Fever.
In terms of suiting, designers such as Frida Giannini for Gucci have incorporated Disco into her pointed collar blazer with tight fitting suit pants into her women’s suits. Also, shiny material has been utilized to emulate the glitz of Disco.
In terms of suiting, designers such as Frida Giannini for Gucci have incorporated Disco into her pointed collar blazer with tight fitting suit pants into her women’s suits. Also, shiny material has been utilized to emulate the glitz of Disco.
Vivienne Westwood’s controversial ‘Destroy’ T-shirt, 1977. The Destroy T- shirt was meant to be an angry condemnation towards government, religion and fascism.
Punk Movement, 1980s
Commes des Garcons, Spring, 2006
Love Brigade, Punk, Saint Louis Fashion Show, 2009
Vivienne Westwood, UK, 2009
The Punk
The original punk fashions of the 1970s were intended to be as confrontational, shocking and rebellious as possible. This style of punk dress was much different from what would now be considered the basic punk look. Punk elements included torn up, deconstructed articles, anarchy symbols, deliberately offensive slogan covered dress shirts (such as “Only Anarchists are pretty”), clothing with controversial images (such as Stalin and Mussolini) and leather rocker jackets and customized blazers with safety pins. Many items that were originally worn by punks in the 1970s became less common later on, and new elements were constantly added to the punk image. Quite a bit of punk fashion from the 1970s was based on the designs Vivienne Westwood, which I have included above.
In modern interpretations, such as that of Comme de Garcons and Love Brigade, bondage and plaid continue to remain prevalent in the punk scene. Vivienne Westwood continues to incorporate unexpected elements, such as drawn in bondage and neck-ware.
Hip Hop Movement, 1980s
Neon colors as seen in the Hip Hop Movement, US, 1980s (above left); Hip hop influences are seen in Chanel's Fall 1991 collection.
Baby Phat, Hip Hop, 2009 (above)Okley Run on M.I.A, Hip hop, 2008 (below)
The Hip Hop
Arriving in the1980s-1990s, hip hop originally entered the fashion as bringing in elements of loud, flashy PVC inspired suits and platinum jewelry. This was done in order to add a new, highly noticeable element and sense of flash to the videos created as marketing tools.
Unlike other fashion trends, the hip hop era saw a division between male and female hip hop styles. Women in hip hop had first copied the male “tough-guy” fashions, which included baggy jeans, “Loc” sunglasses, rough looks and heavy workboots. Yet the trend later evolved and popularized glamorous, high-fashion feminine styles- such as that seen in the Baby Phat line. As seen in the Baby Phat model, a baggy fit is modernized with a shorter hemline, but the gold bling and denim look is still prevalent.
Arriving in the1980s-1990s, hip hop originally entered the fashion as bringing in elements of loud, flashy PVC inspired suits and platinum jewelry. This was done in order to add a new, highly noticeable element and sense of flash to the videos created as marketing tools.
Unlike other fashion trends, the hip hop era saw a division between male and female hip hop styles. Women in hip hop had first copied the male “tough-guy” fashions, which included baggy jeans, “Loc” sunglasses, rough looks and heavy workboots. Yet the trend later evolved and popularized glamorous, high-fashion feminine styles- such as that seen in the Baby Phat line. As seen in the Baby Phat model, a baggy fit is modernized with a shorter hemline, but the gold bling and denim look is still prevalent.
When it came to jewelry, platinum replaced gold as the precious metal of choice, later becoming a source of bragging rights for hip-hoppers.
The recent hip hop fashion scene has returned to the “old-school” look, similar to the early 80s style of dressing. This look includes slim fit denim jeans, tighter fitting t-shirts with shorter arm sleeves, large ornamental belt buckles, ornamented zip-up hoodies, trucker hats and snow inspired apparel. As the baggy look remains relevant to the hip hop scene, some hip hoppers opt for colorful fitted clothing, as depicted by such rappers as M.I.A., pictured above. M.I.A introduces a tight fitted silhouette, while demonstrating the return of neon colors and ‘bling’ as the accessory of choice.
Viktor & Rolf, using metals for Deconstructed Space Age look, 2009 (left)
Yovia Jogia, using symbols and astronaut inspired silhouette in 2009 fashion. (right)
Decunstructed Space Age street trend, with metal armor, 2009
Star Trek-esqeu eyewear, Space Age inspired street trend, 2009Deconstructed Space Age
As seen in the streets as the look of the future, there is a curiosity to the world of futurism. I am calling this trend Space Age, and it has been seen in such works as Viktor & Rolf and YoviaJogia’s 2009 collections. Viktor & Rolf have made use of metalware to add to the futuristic element while Yovia Jogia seems to have been inspired by astronautical suiting. Metallic’s, metal-wear and body armor are characteristics behind this upcoming fashion movement.
As seen in the streets as the look of the future, there is a curiosity to the world of futurism. I am calling this trend Space Age, and it has been seen in such works as Viktor & Rolf and YoviaJogia’s 2009 collections. Viktor & Rolf have made use of metalware to add to the futuristic element while Yovia Jogia seems to have been inspired by astronautical suiting. Metallic’s, metal-wear and body armor are characteristics behind this upcoming fashion movement.
Body Art inspired trend, Adam Saaks, 2007 (above)
Body art, street trend
Body art as Ed Hardy's inspiration, 2009 (above)
Body art as seen on the streets of Japan, 2009Body Art
Tattoo’s have existed for centuries, however, in some instances, they have taken a high note on the streets by taking up a larger percentage of the body and displaying confrontational imagery. As seen in the creations of Ed Hardy and Adam Saaks, tattoo designs have a new place on the runway. This trend relies heavily on imagery for inspiration.
Tattoo’s have existed for centuries, however, in some instances, they have taken a high note on the streets by taking up a larger percentage of the body and displaying confrontational imagery. As seen in the creations of Ed Hardy and Adam Saaks, tattoo designs have a new place on the runway. This trend relies heavily on imagery for inspiration.
