Dress, Egyptian inspired, by Sophia Kikosalaki, 2009

New Kingdom tomb painting, approximately 159 BC (top);
Egyptian inspired artwork, date unknown (below)

Egyptian

The Egyptian cave painting (below) and artwork (above) reflect the simple sheer gowns of the New Kingdom (approximately 159 BC to 30 BC) when ancient Egypt was conquered by Rome. Men and women draped large pieces of fabric in intricate ways around their bodies. Garments resembling straight caftans were at times richly decorated, displaying pleats held by pins and belts. This tying method had the effect of creating wide, elbow-length sleeves. In this example, pleating and one shoulder style is seen in the Sophia Kokosalaki's creation in white. Her dress imitates the sheer qualities of the tomb artwork, and also focuses on the linear form.

Photograph, 20th century(top);
Byzantine

During the 11th century, the mixing of elements from Roman classicism with Middle Eastern ornamentation resulted in the Byzantine style. This costume consisted of detail and intricacies within the overall composition of the garment, such as embroidered fringe at hems, cuffs and neckline. In addition, jewels could be attached to anything so that any accessory could become the primary element of the garment. In the example below, the illustration shows how different colored fabrics were used, creating the introduction of the “Mi-Parti” method. Pants were tightened, while being covered with long or knee-length skirts. The photograph above shows a religious figure who is wearing a Byzantine inspired garment in the 20th century.



Magazine Print depicting 11-12th century Byzantine fashion (below)

Marie Antoinette, 18th century (top); Dolce & Gabana pseudo 18th century style, circa 2008 (bottom)

Rococo

The painting of Marie Antoinette’s 18th century fashion demonstrates the influence of Baroque style on what came to be known as Rococo. This style incorporated ornate detail and a sense of indulgence. The lavish dress code of the Rococo era included lowered necklines as well as towering hairstyles. As seen in a modern interpretation of Rococo style, Dolce & Gabana have attempted to mimic the textiles and embellishments of that era in their own work.

Portrait of Madame de Verninac; 1798–1799 by Jacques Louis David

Portrait of Madame Emilie Seriziat and her Son; 1795 by Jacques Louis David (bottom)

Neoclassical

These portraits show examples of Neo-classic era trends. The simple dress style is characterized by unornamented, all white fabric; given contrasting sashes. Both styles have a thin and flowing outer layer constructed of sheer fabric, imitating ancient Greek and Roman fashion. Madame Seriziat is seen fully skirted and wearing a corset. Over her indoors cap is another hat. As seen on the right, (on Madame de Verninac) neo-classicism introduced the Empire silhouette.

Agatha Ruiz De la Cruz, Milan Fashion Week, 2009

Surrealism

Beginning in the early 1920s, Surrealism is a cultural movement that stemmed from Dadaism after World War I. Surrealist work (including fashion) incorporates elements of surprise and unexpected juxtapositions. This fashion movement was a rejection of the mainstream artistic standards during that early 1900s. As seen in the modern day examples above, the style continues to incorporate unusual and imaginative pieces that can be considered wearable art.

Jeanne Lanvin, 1920 (right); Magazine Cover, 1898-1900 (left)

Art Nouveau

Art Nouveau was an international movement as well as style that affected architecture as well as arts and fashion. The movement peaked in popularity at the turn of the 20th century. As seen in the above pieces, the design aspects of this movement was characterized by organic elements, particularly floral and other plant-inspired motifs, in addition to stylized curvilinear forms. As seen in the magazine print, feminine curves were stylized with ruffles, while an Edwardian influence is seen in the ‘S’ curve shape of the dress. Lines are rounded and there is use of motives and ornamentation.